Revisions
April 2, 2026: Polished for better readability.
You’re set on the parts you’re going to use for your new rig. But that’s only half of it. Don’t forget about the mouse, keyboard, monitor, and everything else you’ll need for your PC. Choose the right accessories to pair with your computer.
Mouse.
I’ll get straight to the point. There are two end-game mice on the market that I usually recommend. The first is Razer Viper series. If you’re not a fan of Razer, then I recommend the Logitech G PRO series. The newest Razer Viper variant at the time of this post is the Razer Viper V3 Pro. Coming in at 54g, it has an ambidextrous design for maximum flexibility no matter how you hold your mouse. It’s a rechargeable (USB-C), wireless mouse equipped with a 35K optical sensor. If you’re on a budget, the Razer Viper V3 HyperSpeed is a much cheaper option from the same lineup. On the other hand, its direct competitor is the Logitech G PRO X Superlight 2. It’s 60g, ambidextrous, rechargeable (USB-C), and is equipped with a 44K optical sensor. Both mice are capable of 8000Hz polling rate.
If you’re looking to spice things up with aftermarket grip tape, then Pulsar’s Supergrip Grip Tape is a great choice. They are extremely grippy and can be easily removed without leaving behind any unwanted residue. They offer a wide range of pre-cut options for mouse models across various brands, including the ones I mentioned above.
Keyboard.
Keyboards can be anything from off-the-shelf products to custom-built creations. You have the option of building one with the components you choose, just like building a PC. If you’re just trying to choose a prebuilt keyboard, Razer offers their Razer Huntsman V3 Pro. The TKL (tenkeyless) variant is helpful if you don’t require a numpad and want to reclaim some mousepad space. On the other hand, the Logitech PRO X TKL RAPID is available. The folks over at Wooting are the ones who originally pioneered technologies like adjustable actuation and rapid trigger that companies like Razer and Logitech now use. They continue to raise the bar with newer models and iterations that push the boundaries.
If you’re down to build your own keyboard, there are a variety of options available, but it all comes down to personal preference. I currently use a keyboard built using a Glorious GMMK PRO Barebones 75% base kit, ZealPC Crystal (tactile) switches, TX Switch Films (0.125mm, clear), and Krytox GPL205 G0 lube. The components you choose are entirely up to you, from the layout to the feel of the switches. Keep in mind that building a custom keyboard means that you’re giving up some of the features that other gaming keyboards offer, like super high polling rates or custom trigger points. Check out the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit for inspiration.
Headphones.
I’m here to dissuade you from buying a headset. You do not need a headphone and mic combo. By buying a headset, you’re sacrificing quality in both audio playback and the microphone. Optimally, you would have a very nice pair of headphones and a standalone mic.
You’re probably thinking, what about all the “features” that I’ll be missing from a gaming headset? The features on headsets are just unnecessary. For example, if you want surround sound, you can enable Windows Sonic for Headphones. It’s a free Windows feature you can find in your audio settings. Many modern games like Counter Strike, Valorant, and Battlefield already support HRTF (head-related transfer function), which is built-in surround sound without requiring external software. As a matter of fact, enabling third-party “surround sound” features on top of HRTF will distort the sound and make positional audio less accurate. The same applies when adding a fake 3D effect to music.
Purchasing a mid-range or high-end pair of neutral, reference-grade headphones will be far more beneficial to you than any other marketing gimmick. Not only will everything sound exactly as intended, but you’ll be able to pinpoint every single detail that you won’t hear with a normal headset. You’re also not forced into buying a whole new headset if one part starts to fail.
For headphones, you have the choice between open-back and closed-back options. Open-back headphones are “open” and allow outside noise to flow through your earcups, similar to Transparency Mode on AirPods Pro. The directional audio will have extreme accuracy because of the insanely wide soundstage. It’s as if the sound is coming from around you instead of from the headphones. The downside is that these will not work if you’re not in a silent environment, as outside noise can interfere with your audio. Closed-back headphones are “closed” and passively block outside noise so they cannot pass through the earcups. You will have a tighter soundstage, but will benefit from not having external noise distract you. The bass response will also be more prominent than the former.
The open-back headphones I personally use are the Shure SRH1840. There is a great closed-back counterpart, the Shure SRH1540. If you’re not fond of wearing headphones, consider a nice pair of IEMs. I personally use the first-gen variant of the Shure SE846. I know these are higher-end options, and I’m not recommending that the average person just drop that kind of money on a whim. But there are cheaper options available as well, including ones from Shure.
Microphone.
A standalone mic is better than any mic you’ll find on a headset. Mics like the Shure MV7+ or the Shure MV6 are well known and proven to provide excellent performance. They are USB mics that can plug directly into your PC, no need for a separate XLR interface. If you’re on a budget, cheaper options like Razer’s Seiren lineup and Logitech’s (previously Blue) Yeti series are still great, reliable choices. A decent, budget-friendly microphone will still get your voice across clearly and isn’t as important as selecting a high-quality pair of headphones. If you’re in a noisy environment and must have the mic right next to your mouth at all times, Antlion Audio offers mics that attach directly to your headphones or IEMs. There are still software-based solutions like Nvidia Broadcast that uses GPU processing power to filter out background noise.
DAC.
A DAC, or digital-to-analog converter, does exactly what the name suggests. Your computer receives a digital audio signal and the DAC is responsible for accurately translating that into an analog output that your headphones can play back. It must be precise across the entire spectrum and amplify the signal without introducing any distortion or noise.
The reason discrete DACs still exist today is because the chips included in most motherboards are cheap, low-performers. When building a product, companies will focus their costs on the areas that can benefit most from a performance uplift. Most consumers will barely notice a mediocre DAC, if at all, so it would be a waste of money to invest in better audio integrity. If you have a really good pair of headphones, IEMs, or audio system that can take advantage of a nicer DAC, you can unleash the full capability of your hardware.
I personally own two AudioQuest DragonFly Cobalt DACs, one for my headphones, and one for my IEMs. It’s a great product that has a high-end ESS chip with clean power filtering and bit-perfect playback.
Webcam.
A webcam is a straightforward purchase for most people. You choose the resolution that you require, and that’s it. If you want a basic 720p or 1080p webcam, go for it. If you want a 4K webcam, there are options available for that too. I recommend Logitech webcams since they have always been reliable. I currently use the Logitech Brio 4K, which is a webcam that offers Windows Hello sign-on, something I use daily instead of manually typing in my password. If you’re a content creator or streamer, you may want something even higher quality, or specific features like an integrated ring light (but we know it’s best to separate products into their own specific functions).
Ethernet.
An ethernet cable is always the optimal choice when it comes to home network connectivity. Hardwiring your computer directly to the router will give you the highest speeds, the lowest latency, and the best reliability. Don’t fall into the marketing gimmicks of buying a Cat8 (Category 8) cable. You’re not running a datacenter and you don’t require 40Gbps speeds. There is no latency difference between Cat8 and lower categories. Those ethernet cables are extremely stiff and hard to route. At those speeds, datacenters would be running fiber anyway. What you need is a reliable Cat6A cable. These are rated for a minimum of 10Gbps at long distances and would be more than you would need at home.
I personally use Monoprice Cat6A SlimRun (S/FTP, 30AWG) ethernet cables. They are slimmer than standard ethernet cables (as the name suggests) and offer electromagnetic shielding. It features a pure copper core, unlike the CCA (copper-clad aluminum) ones that you’ll find with cheap ethernet cables. They’re offered in a small selection of colors, and range from 1 foot to 25 feet in length. The cable is available to purchase on Amazon as well. Just don’t get confused with the inferior 36AWG SlimRun variant.
Monitor.
Purchase a monitor by looking at the specifications. Look at the resolution. Do you want a 1080p or 1440p monitor? Maybe you want a 4K monitor, but make sure your graphics card can drive that many pixels. Most people nowadays will get a 1440p screen as the sweet spot. Look at the monitor size. If you’re purchasing a 1080p monitor, 24-inch or 25-inch screens are considered the sweet spot between image clarity and size. Don’t go larger than that. If you’re purchasing a 1440p monitor, a 27-inch monitor is considered the sweet spot.
Look at the refresh rate. Aim for something with a minimum of 144Hz. Many monitors nowadays can push 240Hz, 360Hz, 480Hz, or even higher, especially on lower resolutions. Take a look at the response time as well. You should be aiming for a 1ms response time or less.
Lastly, note the panel type. You should completely avoid TN panels. They will always produce washed-out, inaccurate colors. VA panels should also be avoided. Yes, they will have nice contrast, but will not perform well when it comes to motion. Most VA panels on the market will suffer from ghosting and smearing. Ideally, you should purchase a monitor with an IPS panel. It will provide nice, accurate colors without the downsides of the previous tech mentioned. OLED monitors could be another potential upgrade, but only if you know what you’re getting yourself into. OLED panels will have the best contrast since they are powered by individual LEDs that can be turned off instead of using a global backlight. This provides crisp colors with true blacks. You’ll have to watch out for burn-in, though. If a static image remains on the same area of your screen for too long, it can burn into the monitor. Common examples are the taskbar or desktop icons.
Colorimeter.
What’s the point of a nice monitor if what you’re seeing isn’t accurate? Most monitors are not color-calibrated from the factory unless you’re buying one made for professional use. Images can be oversaturated, washed out, tinted blue, or just look off.
A colorimeter solves all these problems by using hardware to calibrate your monitor. It consists of a sensor that you place up to your screen, and the included software plays a slideshow of various colors. The sensor determines how “off” the displayed image is from the intended reference, and builds a custom-calibrated display profile. The profile is automatically loaded into Windows and allows your monitor to display everything as accurately as possible. With photos, videos, movies, or games, you’ll be seeing everything as the creators intended. I personally recommend a Datacolor Spyder.
Mousepad.
A mousepad is entirely personal preference, so I’ll only write about what I personally use. I custom-ordered a mousepad that spans across my desk from X-Raypad. I specifically started with the Aqua Control+ base since it’s the perfect balance between a soft and hard surface, and a perfect balance between control and speed. You can contact their support team to customize different aspects of the mousepad. I specified my exact dimensions, uploaded my own graphic, opted for 4mm thickness, and went with black-stitched edges. They now also offer an updated “V2” version with an upgraded rubber bottom. If you want a high-end alternative, mousepads from Artisan are stellar performers.
UPS.
Power your equipment correctly. Protect your computer and peripherals from unexpected brownouts, blackouts, or power surges. A UPS (uninterruptible power supply) has built-in circuitry to automatically cut over to battery power if there is an issue with the power coming from the wall. “Online” UPS systems are even better double-conversion systems that have virtually no cutover time since they are constantly using the battery. It’s the highest level of power protection, but they are overkill for home use.
The other two types of UPS systems are “line-interactive” and “offline.” Line-interactive units are a middle ground between online and offline systems. They have circuitry to condition the incoming power, like boosting the voltage when it’s too low or bucking the voltage when it’s too high. It will only cut over to battery mode when the power is outside of the correctable range, protecting the battery against excessive cutovers. An offline UPS doesn’t have any built-in transformer or special circuitry to correct incoming power. It provides entry-level power protection and will just transfer over to the battery when there is an electrical issue.
Choose a line-interactive UPS that offers pure sine wave output. For my main rig, I personally use the Eaton 5SC1500 UPS. Since my UPS has little to no surge protection, I have it plugged into a heavy-duty Tripp Lite Isobar 8-Outlet Surge Protector. If you’re on a budget, it’s fine to choose a line-interactive one that doesn’t have pure sine wave output.
Chair.
Choose an office chair from Herman Miller or Steelcase. Herman Miller’s flagship chair is the Embody, also available in a Logitech G (gaming) variant. Steelcase’s flagship chair is the Gesture, available with an optional headrest. If your body runs hot while gaming, you may want to choose Herman Miller’s Aeron chair instead, maximizing airflow with mesh. The Aeron was remastered in 2016, so make sure not to purchase an older version. If you’re on a budget and you want a brand-new chair, the Steelcase Series 2 is a good choice. If you’re on a budget and you don’t mind a pre-owned chair, Crandall Office Furniture sells Steelcase Authorized Factory Returns at a lower price.
Why consider an office chair instead of a typical “gaming” chair? It doesn’t matter if you’re looking at brands like Secretlab or Razer or Corsair. Regardless of how they advertise their chairs as “ergonomic,” they are far from it. Genuine, high-end office chairs are designed and rated for all-day use. They are meant for people to sit in the chair for a full eight-hour workday (or more), and feel little to no fatigue by the end of the day. They are not built to be soft or comfortable like a sofa. They are meant to support you throughout the day in all the right areas, and prevent pain from long-term sitting. If you’re in a corporate environment and your chair is uncomfortable, you’re going to be taking more standing breaks, visiting the pantry more often, or dreading coming to work. Companies invest in chairs that allow employees to remain at their desks where they are the most productive.
Unlike these gaming companies, Herman Miller and Steelcase have conducted decades of extensive research and real-world studies of sitting behavior. They partner with ergonomists, scientists, medical professionals, and engineers to perfect every aspect across decades of analysis and development. Herman Miller and Steelcase both provide a full twelve-year warranty on their chairs, even down to the fabric. The warranty even covers continuous use, like in a 24/7 call center with rotating shifts. You’ll be sitting in the chair for over a decade, so the investment is worth it.
Honorable mentions.
There may be other things you want that weren’t covered above. Maybe your motherboard doesn’t have built-in Bluetooth and you need a Bluetooth dongle. Get one that supports Bluetooth 5.0 at the minimum. Perhaps you’re strict about security and require a hardware security key. Go for any YubiKey that suits your needs. Are you a streamer or just want a control panel to easily adjust volume, mute your mic, clip gameplay, or run macros? Look no further than any of Elgato’s Stream Deck products. In the market for a desk? Consider a sit-to-stand desk from a reputable company like UPLIFT, or a desk from IKEA if you’re on a budget.
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